I started this corset by drafting a base using Foundations Revealed using my clients measurements, with the a/b cup instructions. Making note of the waist, underbust, and bust line, I traced off the sections that would join together, separating them at those divisions. This gives me a lower, middle, and upper section, with CF being straight on grain, and CB being bias.
I made a mock-up of the pattern using cotton sheeting and metal busk and bones, and premade grommet tape, and tried it on Jaime. I had absolutely no changes to make! (In hindsight, if I had more time to play - my deadline was now only three days away- I may have tried to make the hip section curvier...)
Apparently I forgot to take pictures of the mock up on Jaime... Oops.
So then I cut each piece out of coutil, outer fabric (duppioni silk in this case) and lining (I like quilting cotton)
As you can see, the pieces are curved sort of funny, with the top piece being the curve over top of the breast, the next one down being the "underbust to midbust" piece, then the "waist to underbust" piece, and then the "waist to hips" section.
I wanted to try making this corset without binding... (mental note- do NOT try something new when you have a tight deadline) so once I had the pieces all sewn together (I treated the coutil/silk as one layer) , and the bone casings in, but before I inserted the busk and back grommets, I sewed the bottom outer layer to the bottom lining, right sides together, and then inserted all the boning. Then I sewed the top edges together, right sides together. At this point I realized that I had no idea how to neatly finish the busk opening using the method for the top and bottom that I did...
Right sides together, I marked where the busk loops needed to be, and sewed that CF edge. Turn right sides out, pray it looks good. Right sides together, sew CF on the other piece. trim seam allowance, turn right side out, press. Mark where the knobs need to come through, use awl to stretch out holes, swear when I realize my careful planning put a knob right at one of the seams, so it is too tight to go through. Cut tiny hole with hole punch for that one knob. FrayCheck that spot. break all fingernails getting the knobs through the holes. Topstitch next to busk using zipper foot on both sides of corset. Ahhhh. As I write this I realize that this is what I should have done. I am not sure why it isn't what I did do... Here's what I did in reality.
Cut 4 of 3" wide strip of silk and coutil. Sew one to hook side of corset, right sides together, leaving the spaces for the hooks. Carefully fold over the raw edge to the size where when I topstitch at the busk edge, it'll catch the raw edge. Sew one strip to the knob side of the corset, right sides together, turn, press, and fold over the raw ege blah blah blah. Mark where the knobs need to come through, use awl to stretch out holes, swear when I realize my careful planning put a knob right at one of the seams, so it is too tight to go through. Cut tiny hole with hole punch for that one knob. FrayCheck that spot. break all fingernails getting the knobs through the holes. Topstitch next to busk using zipper foot on both sides of corset. Ahhhh.
Sew the remaining strips on the CB of corset, right sides together, folding over raw edge blah blah blah. Mark where I want to grommets to go, realize that my careful planning has made it impossible to evenly space grommets in any way at all, decide to mess with peoples' heads and have the spacing change from one panel to the next. Finally, have bestie carefully handststich the flowers she spent two days making becasue she loves me so much on the upper portion of the bust section. Ta-Da!
And on Jaime!